Sewing Pattern Help

Start sewing again

Most people who have done a little sewing know how to use a sewing pattern. Patterns are made by a selection of companies in hundreds of different styles and fashions. In the 1980s and 90s making clothes for yourself and your children was less fashionable but it is now making a huge comeback through economic necessity and many people are looking for new and vintage patterns to make new clothes or restyle their old ones.

History of patterns

Paper patterns were first introduced in the mid 1800s when Ebenezer Butterick a tailor by trade, took his wife’s idea and started to produce graded patterns that could be modified or cut to the size of the person.

Cardboard pattern

They started out being made of heavy cardboard but obviously it was not suitable to fold and difficult to package and distribute so the Buttericks looked to a finer paper for the answer and tissue paper seemed to be ideal. The initial collection of patterns were for men’s clothing and it was a few years later when the first women’s patterns were introduced and received an enthusiastic reception.

Europe and Hollywood patterns

There were a variety of sizes manufactured for skirts, capes and jackets. In the 1940s and 50s Europe embraced all things American. Hollywood influenced all aspects of fashion, hair, makeup and clothes. Everyone wanted to look like the celebrity film stars and making your own clothes was one of the ways that everyone could afford to look like their film idols. The introduction of new fabrics, zips and buttons made making your own clothes easier and more likely to be successful.

Making your own clothes from patterns

If the idea of making your own clothes frightens the life out of you, stop worrying it is not as difficult as it first sounds, especially if you follow a sewing regime provided by a pattern, which takes away all the mystery surrounding fashion designing.

Simple patterns to start

You should start with a simple pattern a skirt or sleeveless top perhaps. Buy your pattern from any of the pattern manufacturers listed Butterick, McCalls, Vogue, Burda, KwikSew or Simplicity. Look at the advice on how to use sewing patterns and the calculations regarding how much fabric to buy for the size you wish to make. Lay out your fabric on a large work surface a table or the floor making sure to fold it along the grain so that it is double thickness along its length. Press the fabric flat with an iron if necessary.

Take you time and don't dive straight in. Take out your pattern from the envelope and carefully look at all the pieces. (There are often two or more designs in one envelope) separate all the pieces that are relevant to the item you are making. There is a trick of laying out the pieces on the fabric so as to leave the least amount of waste. This takes practice so do not worry if you get it wrong. There is usually a layout plan on the envelope and you can follow this exactly. The problems only start if you do not have the correct amount of fabric or make a mistake by cutting out duplicate sleeves/ sides/ front and back etc.

If you are really scared of messing things up why not try miniature patters. Make clothes for dolls; the added attraction is that your children will help you too. You need so little material and any errors you make will not have such a big impact. When you have confidence and see the finished results I am positive you will want to go on to make your own clothes.

Grain of the fabric

Match fabric to pattern arrows

Be very careful to follow the direction of the arrows printed on the pattern pieces they tell you that the piece must lay directly along the grain of the fabric. Sometimes collar pieces or yokes will lie across the grain and some skirts and dresses will be cut on the diagonal. Watch that you do not cut along the fold unless the pattern instructs you to do this. When you have the pattern laid out to your satisfaction pin it onto the fabric (you may wish to trim your pattern to the size you are making prior to laying it on your fabric) Now making sure to leave a half to three quarter inch seam allowance all the way around your pattern pieces, you can cut around each piece until they are all complete. Inside your pattern envelope will be a sheet of instructions telling you the order in which to assemble all your pieces. Depending on your skills and sewing ability you may want to tack the fabric pieces together prior to sewing on the sewing machine.

Zig zag stitch pattern

Gradually sew all your pieces together pressing each seam as it is sewn and neatening the edges with a zig zag stitch to avoid fraying edges. Try it on as you assemble it and make any necessary alterations before putting the finishing touches to your garment. Finally press the completed item and then show it off to all your friends. You may have never machined in your life or sewn a seam by hand. You may have learned in school and then put it all behind you but the first step in making something of your own to wear is to buy a sewing pattern and then take it step by step until you are successful.